Tuesday, 31 January 2017

Sew Over It Coco Jacket Completed!

Yahoo! After an epic session of hand-stitching last night I finally finished my Sew Over It Coco Jacket that I started at the Clapham branch class in November 2016.

This is the third jacket / coat I have made at Sew Over It classes (1960's coat, Francine Jacket and now the Coco). Due to a little previous experience with coat-making I had a better understanding of why facings and fusible fabrics are used to strengthen the jacket and I was able to adapt the pattern using a hem-band like I used for my Francine jacket rather than the suggested class method.

The class was taught by the lovely Kate Underwood who was extremely helpful with a chilled out and calm vibe throughout the workshop sessions.

I bought the wool-mix fabric from Sew Over It for £14 a metre and as it was VERY wide I only really needed 1.25 metres (although of course I bought two metres just in case so I now have enough left to make a winter pencil skirt). I only needed one metre of black lining.

Just to let you know the colour of this jacket is a beautiful Yves Klein cobalt blue which just doesn't come out in the photographs very well. Have that lush blue in your mind whilst perusing these shots...

Don't worry the sleeves are the same length - just not sure my arms are!!

Hand-stitched lining around the sleeve-syche

Hand-stitched lining all along the hem-band
I am happy to have finished this jacket and I have clarified some basic tailoring and dress-making knowledge and learnt a few new processes along the way too.

If I was to make this jacket again I would choose a lighter fabric as the bulk of the wool doesn't allow for a very sharp finish at the edges and corners of the jacket opening. On the plus side it is very warm and cosy!

Overall, I enjoyed learning some new processes and meeting some new sewing buddies (hello Steph!). I will leave you with a random selection of construction shots looking at the internal workings of the jacket.

New to me technique - the Coco instructions require you to the stitch the bodice lining to the arm-syche

Pretty happy with the shoulder and sleeve seam lined up perfectly!

Before inserting the sleeve lining I very carefully and slowly trimmed away excess seam allowances

Sleeve lining pinned in position ready for hand-stitching
What are you working on at the moment?
Is there anything in your work-in-progress pile that you really want to finish?


  1. Looks great Caroline! Very striking colour.

    1. Thanks Tamsin x Yes the colour is lovely but the photos don't really do it any justice!

  2. Great work! You must be getting to be a bit of an expert in coat/jacket construction :) I got the Grainline Cascade pattern for Christmas so hope to make my first jacket using that sometime this year.

    1. Thanks Alex. I'm looking forward to seeing your Cascade jacket.

  3. That is a beautiful jacket,the color looks lovely on the pictures and the fit seems to be just right! I really like the length. I guess it also looks great worn with dresses and skirts.

  4. Thanks Kat. I am happy with the final jacket. I'd definitely make the next one in a lighter weight fabric though as it's quite bulky.

  5. Ooh this looks great!! Thanks for the construction shots and detailed description too, it's so helpful and interesting. I've had a papercut patterns waver jacket cut out for 2 winters now - I really want to get on with sewing it up this year!

    1. Thanks Kathryn - I'd love to see your Waver jacket made up! Go for it!!

  6. Love the jacket but cant get passed number 20.. cant get the corner sharp. Do you happen to have a picture of step 20? Maybe Im doing something wrong.