Stripy Dixie DIY Bonnell Dress

In September 2017 I discussed a host of works in progress projects and the Dixie DIY Bonnel Dress was one of them. 10 months later and just in time for the wonderful heat of this surprisingly hot UK summer I have spent the last two weeks sewing this little beauty together in half hour and hour slots. This is my third version of the pattern; the first is here and my second here.

The soft and lightweight cotton stripy print was gifted by my friend Sophie who lives in Hong Kong. It was not quite opaque enough to go unlined so I underlined it with a soft white cotton batiste I purchased from MacCulloch and Wallis a few years ago.

I did make a few changes to the original pattern as follows:

• I omitted the cut-out sections at the sides of the bodice
• Removed the V back
• I didn't use the in-seam pockets
• French seam construction
• Added patch pockets on the front as I had just enough fabric left-over to make some generous large squared pockets that were also lined with the white cotton batiste
• I completed my first ever exposed zip, mostly because I didn't have any concealed zips in my stash but when I discovered the pretty jade green zip in my 'zip box' (everybody has a 'zip-box' right?) I hatched a plan to make it a feature
• Hand-stitched a waistband on the inside to keep the insides neat

Enjoy some close-up shots of the construction.

In other news, I enjoyed the fantastic Orla Kiely, A Life in Pattern exhibition at the Fashion and Textiles Museum in Bermondsey. It's definitely worth a visit to see the rich collection of gorgeous colours, patterns, bags and fab fashion! Here are a few photos from the exhibition which is on until 23rd September so there is plenty of time for you to go.

Have you seen any lovely exhibitions recently?

Red Bonnell Dress

In May 2015 I pattern tested the Dixie DIY Bonnell Dress. It is a lovely dress pattern with cheeky cut-away sections in the bodice.

Dixie DIY Bonnell Dress

The first version I made the dress exactly as-per the instructions and enjoyed the process of making it but when it came to wearing it, I just didn't! The fabric I used was a cotton sateen which had a little bit of stretch, subsequently the waistband stretched and didn't look right because it drooped where the cut-away sections were. Long story short I gave that first version to the charity shop.

Onto version two. I bought two metres of cheap and cheerful red floral viscose from a stall on Chapel Street market in Islington last summer (£2 per metre) with the intention of making a Bonnell Dress v2. This time I omitted the cut-away sections and slightly lengthened the skirt section.

The construction was good and with a self-lined bodice it looks very pretty on the inside too. The fit is great but (why is there often a but?), the back bodice must have stretched out during construction as the back section which should lie in a beautiful V for the centre-back zip is all floppy and stretched. I should have sewn or ironed on some stay-tape to stablise it. Better luck on version 3!

You can see the slight rippling of the bodice either side above the zip - eek!

Overall it is a lovely light summer dress and as I can't see the back of the dress myself I am not that concerned about a little wobbly bodice edge.

Pattern: Dixie DIY Bonnell Dress = Free for pattern testing in 2015

Fabric: 2 metres of viscose from Chapel Street market, Islington = £4.00

Gutterman Thread: Red from stash = free

Invisible Zip: Red = £1.00

Bias Binding: Red bias binding around zip from stash = free

Total: £5.00

Check out lots of other cool crafty blogs at #handmademonday organised by Julia of Sum of their Stories.

Out of Control

Help! My WIP (work-in-progress) or UFO (unfinished object) pile has got a little out of hand. As is the case with many sewing enthusiasts, we optimistically cut out projects thinking that we will find an hour here or there to sew them together. This summer I got waylaid with my house renovation. Instead of sewing my WIP's I was re-painting the garage floor or sanding and painting balcony railings... the list of DIY jobs I had was endless (and I still need to finish a few before Christmas).

The mad thing is that I now have a huge pile of seasonally inappropriate garments cut out.

First up is my 'summer' dressing gown...

The Buchanan pattern was gifted to me by my friend Sophie. I imported the blue Paul Frank fabric from Hong Kong a couple of years ago and the red cotton contrast collar and cuff also comes from my stash. I don't think it will take too long to sew up, but I won't really wear it until the spring.

Next up is a summer dress. The Dixie DIY Bonnell dress was enthusiastically cut out in July. I had high hopes of sauntering around London in this lovely red viscose beauty but alas it didn't happen. The fabric was a bargain £2.00 a metre from a stall on Chapel Street Market in Islington.

Onto a fun summery seperate, the Liesl & Co Everyday Skirt. This is my second version and I am really looking forward to wearing this black and white one (whenever that will be!). The viscose fabric was from the spring sale at John Lewis at £7 per metre.

This next garment is about 90% completed. It is the Colette Laurel shift dress. Despite the beautiful Liberty Tana Lawn fabric called Kinetic, I lost my sew-jo with the back fastening and the neckline. I am sure I could finish this in about half an hour but as its a lightweight cotton dress, it won't really be worn until the spring!

My last WIP is something that I could wear this season. I cut it out at the end of the summer after rediscovering this awesome vintage fabric I've had for about ten years. I strongly suspect it was probably some curtains in its previous life but with just over a metre I was limited to what garment I could make with this crazy print.

The added complication of the missing corner restricted the choice of garment even more. As luck would have it the Ready Ruthie Dolores Pocket Skirt fitted quite well!

Not enough fabric for perfect pattern matching. Instead I chose selection of the main motifs found on the skirt to balance out the pattern. What pockets? 

Some organic cotton from my stash worked perfectly for the pocket linings and hem facing. I didn't stop there. The darker autumnal colours matched perfectly with a metre of olive green silk I have had in my stash since my Textiles Degree (over 20 years ago) so I splashed out and cut the lining in silk!

That makes five part completed works in progress. I hope to get some of these sewn up soon, especially the vintage fabric Dolores Pocket Skirt as I can see myself wearing this for work.

Have you got any WIP's or UFO's that are hanging around too long?

Dixie DIY the Bonnell pattern test

Dixie DIY recently brought out her new dress the Bonnell. In April she asked for volunteers to pattern test the dress before launching it to the public. I was very happy to have been selected to test this lovely dress. If you haven't already seen the Bonnell it is a fitted bodice with cut-out detailing at the sides. It has a lined bodice with a softly gathered skirt with pockets.

This is the second pattern test I have completed (the first was the Dolores Pocket skirt last year) and I really enjoyed the experience. Dixie was a lovely person to work with sending out helpful e-mail suggestions whenever anything new cropped up.

The instructions for the most part were very clear (Dixie has since clarified a few steps) and the PDF was relatively small considering it is a dress. The aesthetics of the PDF were very appealing and had Dixie's trademark colours and clean lines like her blog.

Before embarking on the construction I made a few little sketches to get my creative juices flowing. I hunted in my stash for appropriate fabrics.

Is it bad that I have this many possible options in my fabric stash? Please tell me I'm not alone here!

I wanted it to be a wearable muslim as it has a lovely fully lined bodice with cut-out features that would make it a pretty summer dress.

I love these Liberty print fabrics but I didn't quite have enough for the full gathered skirt of the Dixie Bonnell

Fantastic print on this fabric but it's a slippy rayon / polyester and I felt it might be a bit tricky to work with on this occasion

A lovely colourful cotton with a little bit of lycra. Perfect for the Bonnell!

Onto the construction of the dress. Judging by the sizing information I needed to grade from a 2 bust to a 4 at the waist and hips which I graded straight on the pattern before cutting into my fabric.

When I make my next Bonnell I am going to stick to a straight 2 all over as the waistband is too wide - It was only apparent when I had finished sewing it all together.

Instead of gathers (as per the instructions) I created a few equal pleats around the waistband. I also added about 8cm to the length of the skirt so it would hit my knee, as I think it would be a tad too short for my preference.

Here are a couple of photos of the dress during the construction stage:

Bodice with the lining

Pinned and basted outer waistband

Pinning the lining waistband

The finished dress 

The waistband is a little loose and I think the small lycra content of the fabric makes it drop slightly

Next time I need to move the zip higher to intersect with the finish of the back seams

Slightly wonky waistband application at the back right - Oops!!

Overall I really enjoyed the challenge of sewing a new dress and following the instructions of a new pattern. I am certain this dress will be a very popular addition to any sewers wardrobe and you can always add net / lace / contrast fabrics to the 'cut-out' section if you are a bit shy about revealing any side-flesh!

The changes I will make for my next Bonnell are as follows:

• Use 100% cotton for more structure
• Cut the same size throughout so the waistband will be a better fit
• Improve the insertion of the zip

Thanks to Dixie for giving me the opportunity to test her fab new pattern!