Dixie DIY the Bonnell pattern test

Dixie DIY recently brought out her new dress the Bonnell. In April she asked for volunteers to pattern test the dress before launching it to the public. I was very happy to have been selected to test this lovely dress. If you haven't already seen the Bonnell it is a fitted bodice with cut-out detailing at the sides. It has a lined bodice with a softly gathered skirt with pockets.

This is the second pattern test I have completed (the first was the Dolores Pocket skirt last year) and I really enjoyed the experience. Dixie was a lovely person to work with sending out helpful e-mail suggestions whenever anything new cropped up.

The instructions for the most part were very clear (Dixie has since clarified a few steps) and the PDF was relatively small considering it is a dress. The aesthetics of the PDF were very appealing and had Dixie's trademark colours and clean lines like her blog.

Before embarking on the construction I made a few little sketches to get my creative juices flowing. I hunted in my stash for appropriate fabrics.

Is it bad that I have this many possible options in my fabric stash? Please tell me I'm not alone here!

I wanted it to be a wearable muslim as it has a lovely fully lined bodice with cut-out features that would make it a pretty summer dress.

I love these Liberty print fabrics but I didn't quite have enough for the full gathered skirt of the Dixie Bonnell

Fantastic print on this fabric but it's a slippy rayon / polyester and I felt it might be a bit tricky to work with on this occasion

A lovely colourful cotton with a little bit of lycra. Perfect for the Bonnell!

Onto the construction of the dress. Judging by the sizing information I needed to grade from a 2 bust to a 4 at the waist and hips which I graded straight on the pattern before cutting into my fabric.

When I make my next Bonnell I am going to stick to a straight 2 all over as the waistband is too wide - It was only apparent when I had finished sewing it all together.

Instead of gathers (as per the instructions) I created a few equal pleats around the waistband. I also added about 8cm to the length of the skirt so it would hit my knee, as I think it would be a tad too short for my preference.

Here are a couple of photos of the dress during the construction stage:

Bodice with the lining

Pinned and basted outer waistband

Pinning the lining waistband

The finished dress 

The waistband is a little loose and I think the small lycra content of the fabric makes it drop slightly

Next time I need to move the zip higher to intersect with the finish of the back seams

Slightly wonky waistband application at the back right - Oops!!

Overall I really enjoyed the challenge of sewing a new dress and following the instructions of a new pattern. I am certain this dress will be a very popular addition to any sewers wardrobe and you can always add net / lace / contrast fabrics to the 'cut-out' section if you are a bit shy about revealing any side-flesh!

The changes I will make for my next Bonnell are as follows:

• Use 100% cotton for more structure
• Cut the same size throughout so the waistband will be a better fit
• Improve the insertion of the zip

Thanks to Dixie for giving me the opportunity to test her fab new pattern!