Tilly and the Buttons Bettine Hack

I hatched a plan to make the Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress in an A-line skirt and drawstring waist fastening. The plan came together pretty smoothly during a sewing Saturday at the end of May when I had the house to myself. 

I used two metres of gorgeous patterned viscose that I bought from Sew Over It from their original Islington shop. The fabric has a printing flaw in it (a missed line of printing which is white) but it isn't very noticeable. Before I even cut the pattern pieces out I decided to use the reverse side of the fabric as it had a 'chambray' type effect and softened the intense colours a little.

The 'right' side is on the left and the 'wrong' side is on the right.

It was a fairly straight forward and enjoyable sew. I made a Bettine dress in 2015 and in 2017 cropped it into a top because the 'tulip-style' skirt section didn't really suit me. The idea of making the waistband as a drawstring rather than elastic was partly due to the lack of elastic supplies in my stash but mostly because I wanted it to be really comfortable and flexible.

A limited amount of viscose fabric meant I needed to raid the stash for a contrast facing, pocket, cuffs and waistband. The black worked well with the colours of the fabric but the cotton is a little stiff compared to the soft and drapey viscose. I am hoping it will soften in the wash.

I cut the A line to the very edges of the fabric to maximise the A-Line skirt section. I folded it towards the centre to create two centre fold lines.

The waistband drawstring sections were just two strips of black fabric attached to the bodice and skirt on the outside and on the inside I ironed the seam allowance in and pinned all around to create a channel. I topstitched this inner waistband on from the front. I sewed two buttonholes at the front of the waistband so the drawstring would come out of the front of the dress.

If I wanted to add elastic at a future date I created an opening on the inside waistband by hemming the centre back pieces rather than sewing them together. It probably makes more sense to see the photos below.

The final photos of the dress showing the last few steps of construction.

Liberty Tilly and the Buttons Bettine Top

I first hacked the Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress into a top earlier in the year when I realised the dress I had made in 2016 just sat in my wardrobe. I really like the hacked top with its cropped style and grown-on sleeves and I delved into my stash for a metre of navy Liberty Tana Lawn Jonathan print (I bought it at Shaukat in Kensington for £8.00 about four years ago).

The construction was very quick, perhaps three hours in total including hand stitching the sleeve cuffs. This speedy make was thanks to my past-self who had cut the whole thing out and popped it in a bag along with matching thread and the Bettine instructions ready for a sewing splurge to bring it to life!

Here it is in its fully french-seamed and hacked glory.

Have you hacked any patterns recently?

Re-fashioned Bettine Top

This project started life as a Tilly and the Buttons Bettine dress that I made in 2016. I didn't really get on with the exaggerated tulip style skirt as it was too wide around the hip area (and being pear shaped seemed to make it worse) so I decided to take it in at each side seam.

I took it in too much and now it was too TIGHT! Unfortunately I had already removed the excess seam allowance so when I wore the dress it used to ride up to what I would consider cheekily short proportions. Evidenced in this photo below (I always had to wear it with leggings to save my blushes). Yes, this dress is supposed to be around knee length!

It sat in my wardrobe unloved until yesterday when I had an idea to re-fashion it into a top. I carefully unpicked the waist seam and removed the elastic waistband. 

At this stage after trying the top on I realised that with an additional couple of cm's removed for the hem I would be left with a VERY short crop top. If it was 20 years ago I would have certainly gone ahead with a cropped style but in my mid 40's you have to consider the mental health of others and avoid flashing a pasty white un-toned belly at people......

Long story short, I created a bias band using the cut-off skirt section to mirror the bias cut cuff of the sleeves. I wore it today on an adventure to Dalston Curve Gardens and I loved it!

Here are some lovely shots of the fabulous Dalston Eastern Curve Gardens just two minutes walk from Dalston Junction train station. A secret oasis of gardening magic and a chilled out and calm atmosphere.

Large scale outdoor cross-stitch tapestry at the back of this planter is awesome!

Disco greenhouse!

The opening hours are from 11am - 10pm and there is a small cafe to buy homemade food and hot drinks. My friend Charlotte and I enjoyed a pot of tea sitting on outside sofas like this awesome one below!

 

Overall a lovely day! Have you re-fashioned a not-so-great hand-made into something better recently? 

Talking of re-fashioning.... are you going to join in with the Refashioners 2017 this year? 

Portia at the Makery is running the challenge again this year and the theme is 'Suits'. I think I'm going to give this one a miss and concentrate on working through my own stash of patterns, fabrics and half-made clothing!

Gingham Bettine for Made Up pledge

Hey, have heard of the #Made-Up initiative that has been organised by the lovely Karen from 'Did You Make That?'  alongside the National Literacy Trust to encourage and support reading and literacy in the UK. The idea is to donate and make a pledge that is related to anything creative (that is where the Made Up bit comes in).

This was my pledge:

As you can see I kept it vague and unspecific because I had no idea what I would make at the donation stage of my pledge. Needless to say I was not without inspiration for patterns or fabric.
I elected to make the new Bettine dress by Tilly and the Buttons in a black and white gingham that I bought from Goldhawk Road in 2013 (I know this because I blogged about its purchase!!).

Onto the dress. Unless you have been off-grid from social media I am sure you know the latest lovely release from T&tB. The Bettine is an elegant and funky elastic-waisted dress with kimono sleeves and the option for pockets (got to love a pocket!).

I referred to the power of Instagram to help select whether I should do bias or straight-grain pockets. Bias won!

I cut out bias sleeve cuffs to link with the pocket detailing. 

Just after sewing the skirt side seams my beloved Bernina broke! The On/Off switch just snapped inside (along with my heart).

Hand-picked hem due to broken Bernina!

I have taken my sewing machine to Chapman Sewing Machines in Camden today and will let you know how Bernie gets on. He has been a stalwart of a machine - this is the FIRST time since 1990 that he has EVER broken. I am looking forward to his return after a nice bit of TLC servicing and replacement of his broken switch.

For my next Bettine I will need to add length to both the bodice and skirt in addition to altering the hip curve to be less pronounced.