Saturday, 19 December 2015

Sew Over It Francine Jacket

In October I booked a place on the Sew Over it Francine Jacket course with some fellow sewing friends, Caroline F, Kate and Valentina who I have met on previous SOI courses. I have been quite busy with work and other fun stuff and only just got around to blogging the journey of the Francine.
She is quite a complex lady with lots of interesting details to keep a more advanced sewer on their toes. You complete the jacket over three evening sessions with quite a chunk of homework in-between (in particular after week one). I was very happy to be taught by the lovely Julie Johnston again - this is one super talented teacher!

What new things did I learn? Quite a few things........

  • My first major plaid matching - wow, it takes a looooong time!
  • Full lining of a jacket using a technique that requires only hand-stitching a small section around the base of the inside
  • Interesting sleeve head & shoulder pad insertion
  • Great rolled collar technique
  • Self-covered buttons
The journey in pictures; from the fabric selection to the final jacket. Enjoy!

Glad you are still here!
This has been my most complex make to date.
I found it fun, challenging and stressful in equal measure. I am really pleased with my final jacket but definitely need a few quick sews after this intensive project.
The fabric came entirely from my stash which I am pretty darn happy about. The outer is a Cashmere and wool mix fabric that I picked up on a whim last summer from Shakut in Kensington for £24. I had just enough for this jacket. The lining was left over from my SOI Tulip skirts (as can be seen in this post).

After hours of cutting single layers of jacket pieces I was really fed up with plaid matching and was inspired to cut the collar from a beautiful 1/4 metre piece of 100% charcoal cashmere that my Dad gave me about 20 years ago (it was from his work where they used to weave beautiful scarves for companies like Burberry). The piece was just big enough for this collar and I am really pleased with the finish. Due to the nap of the cashmere I had to change the pattern piece and cut it in two sections so I could keep the nap even on each side of the collar.

All in all a very satisfying project.
What have you been up to in the lead up to Christmas?


  1. Wow, looks great Caroline! And how wonderful to be able to use the black cashmere after stashing it for so long. Hope you are really pleased with this xx

    1. Thanks Alex. I am really pleased to have used the cashmere after all this time! It was waiting for the right project. Hope you had a great holiday in the States x

  2. The collar makes it. Well done you. This jacket looks great, so many techniques. And plaid matching! Great work.

    1. Thanks Louise - you are very kind in saying so.

  3. Great work! The jackets fits great and it looks so neat! I also really like the details like the buttons.

  4. Nice fit - it looks fab, well done!

  5. Nice fit - it looks fab, well done!

  6. Great idea for the collar. I love this blazer style of jacket and want to make one myself, interesting to get a look at the sleeve heads and shoulder pads ;o)

    1. Thanks - I really like looking at the insides of more complex garments too.